ABC Cutting Part One

Classics are the foundation of all that we do creatively. Here, we will learn how to combine individuality and suitability. Precision, Structure, and understanding how to cut hair.


OBJECTIVES

- ABC principle of cutting hair
- Tips to combine technique and shape
- How to choose right length
- Dynamics of cutting: over direction, elevation, tension, and sectioning
- How to determine suitability of a cut for client


ABC PRINCIPLE/TECHNIQUE

LINES - Also A or 0 degree haircut. Allowing hair to fall naturally. A line is cut without the use of elevation. It creates geometry and width in an area of hair. A line haircut can also be part of a haircut to complete one look. It is the most simple looking haircut and also hardest to achieve.

Keys to achieving this haircut: head shape, sectioning. For straight lines, use straight sections. for A-lines, use "A" sections.
Example of diagram for A-line. I was not able to find a straight cut diagram but it would be the same only the line would be straight instead of angled.

Images of A-line haircut

Top Image - Create lines to bring out facial features. A straight fringe to bring focus to the eyes. The length of this cut draws eyes to the lips. Choose things you like about the client to bring out and choose things the client feels confident about as well.
Bottom Image - "AB" combination haircut. B or graduation haircut I will explain below. In this cut, the line is established first and then hair is slightly elevated. This is achieved by how the hair is cut and not just relying on blow dry.

* Be aware of whorl patterns and hairline. The more a hairline jumps up, the less tension you may use. Be aware of client position, it may factor into achieving how exact your precision cut will be. Body and position of hair stylist is best at eye level and with good posture. Use mirror and also create distance. Step away every one in a while to check balance of haircut and proportions.


GRADUATION - Also B this haircut varies from 1-89 degrees. The build up of weight. The lifting of hair to create internal and external shapes. External graduation produces heavier weight line. Internal graduation is a more gradual build up of length and weight. The image pictured below is a diagram for external and internal graduation. Please excuse my bad ass illustration skills. I was not able to find them online :\
















Differences between external and internal and deciding which to use depending on what the client wants:
Internal Graduation - More contemporary. Less of a weight line, hair looks more textured. Width is leaner so it gives a softer look. 
External Graduation - More classic look. Tailored edge. 


Images for B haircut

Top Image - BA combination haircut. External graduation. Graduation is cut first then line is established. This one is skinny on the neck and graduation sits higher up. It has a definite weight line which compliments her jaw line.
Bottom Image - B haircut. Internal graduation. Gradual build up of length. Sleeker look, light bulb shape. Not masculine and leaves length in hair. More feminine shape and movement.


LAYERS - Most hairdressers feel confident with this C, 90 or higher degrees haircut. It removes weight. Controls movement and texture in hair. Here are the three key ways...and again, more bad ass illustrations!!

Convex - Goes against head shape (over direction)
Concave - Following the head shape (contour)
Flat - It builds up and can camouflage the way the head rounds. It hides curves of the head (ex. very strong occipital bone)

When we are cutting hair how do we know if we should start with the outline first or layers? If you have a client and you want to see the geometry and a definite line, you want to create the line first then layer. For a softer look, layer first then do outline.

REMINDER: Study the bone structure and facial features for suitability.
Images for C haircut

Well, this concludes ABC cutting part one Principle and Technique. This is a fantastic refresher course and I hope you enjoyed (re)learning these basics as much as I did!! We still have quite a way to go but I hope to present part two very soon. Feel free to leave comments...about anything :)